There are several details that must be considered before we can begin our wall framing. Understanding these issues before we begin will reduce the chance for problems while we work.
This is important because it will dictate how we begin and end each wall. There are several standards that can be followed. For garages, the most common standard is the 3-stud corner (some people call it a 4-stud corner). In this application, you begin your wall with 3 studs all nailed together, then you end your wall short of the edge of the foundation. If using 2x4's, end your wall 3.5" short of the corner, if using 2x6, end the wall 5.5" short of the corner. End the wall with a SINGLE stud, don't do the 3 studs again. Now, when you start your next wall, build it with the same 3-stud setup you started your last wall with. When you stand up your second wall, just nail it to the single stud at the end of the previous wall.
There are other more complicated methods of handling the corners, but those are normally reserved for homes where maximum insulation is important. For garages, this type of corner is easy and very strong.
In other words, what is the spacing of our nails and what type do we need. Your blueprints should have the nailing schedule stated on them unless it is implied. If the nailing schedule is not present, you should assume the standard for your area which is probably 16" field and 8" edges. That means that nails will be spaced at 16" intervals in the middle of the OSB, and 8" intervals on the edges of the OSB. The nailing schedule on my blueprints was a bit more than that, it said:
4" O.C. edges
8" O.C. field
This is twice the norm but typical for my high wind area.
I needed different types of lumber depending on where I was using it:
Treated 2x6 lumber was used for the still plate. Treated lumber needs to be used whenever lumber comes in contact with concrete, so the sill plate has to be treated. Also remember that both the top and sill plates should be made of the longest lumber that you can find/carry/have-delivered, so that you have as few joints as possible.
The rest of the framing lumber, including the top plate, did not need to be treated. It could be standard 2x6, and the length could be the standard 92-5/8", which is the cheapest and most common length to buy framing lumber in.
The sheathing is OSB, which stands for oriented strand-board. Take a close look at it and you'll see why it's called that. OSB sheathing is cheap and plentiful at home improvement stores, and comes in 4' x 8' sheets. OSB sheathing is not treated, so it needs to be protected from water. Normally the siding and trim will take care of this, but when storing it outside it should probably be covered. OSB comes in different thicknesses, which is made more confusing by the fact that manufacturers undersize their OSB to save on costs. For instance, 1/2" OSB will actually have 15/32" printed on it, because the manufacturer made it 1/32" under size. This is considered acceptable practice and won't cause a problem at inspection time. The nailing schedule of the blueprints will probably specify the OSB thickness that is needed (usually it's 1/2" for the walls).
Your blueprints will specify this, typically it's 16" O.C. which means the centerline of the studs are 16" apart. Depending on the construction you may see a number other than 16" O.C. on your blueprints, if so, follow that spacing instead. Most importantly, don't just use any random spacing amount, because then you might find that your studs don't line up with the edges of the OSB sheathing. 16" is the standard because it lines up properly.
I needed quite a few different types of nails in order to do the best job possible. I also needed a framing nail gun, which we'll talk about later. Nails for framing nailers are sold in large boxes, which can be a problem if you only need a small number of a certain type of nail. For this reason you might choose to make sacrifices. For instance, any nail that goes into treated lumber is supposed to be galvanized, particularly if it has a chance of being exposed to water. I spent a little more money and used galvanized nails nearly everywhere, that way I didn't need special nails for the treated sill plate.
The nails I used:
8d (also known as 8 penny) galvanized ring shank - 8d or 8 penny is an ancient nail measuring system that is still used today. 8d nails are 2.5" long. These were used to fasten the OSB to the 2x6 studs. You will find that the connection of the OSB to the studs is where most of the strength of the walls comes from, which is why my engineer specified the nail type and nailing pattern. I went beyond the standard 8d nail and used ring shank 8d galvanized nails. They are more resistant to pulling out and shouldn't rust. In fact they are nearly impossible to pull out, so try not to mess up!
16d galvanized - These were used to fasten nearly all of the other framing lumber together. 16d nails are 3.5" long and are ideal for fastening the studs to the sill plate and the top plate.
10d - In a few places, I used 10d nails which are 3" long. This length is ideal for joining two 2x4's or 2x6's together. For instance, when nailing the 3 studs together for the corners I used 10d. I also used them for nailing the double top plates together. They're good anywhere you need to install doubled studs, such as at the joints in the sill plate.
So, three boxes of nails was enough to get the job done for me.
If any of the above issues are new to you, as they all were to me, just look at your blueprints for a section that guides you. Oftentimes you will find all of the above needed information in the nailing schedule of your blueprints. For instance, in the wall framing area of my blueprints, I found the following information:
As you can see, that one small area of my prints answered nearly all of the above issues.